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What a beautiful work day it was here in the Ozarks! We had 60's in the morning and low 80's this afternoon, which is really unusual for August.
Well I said in my last post that I would give you guys a post on my daily activities, and here's the first. Thought I'd share a little of what I do on a daily basis, to let you all know in a little more detail of the repairs I do on a daily basis. The way I'm gonna try to do this is to not just list the vehicles I worked on and tell you what I fixed and so on, but I'm gonna pick a couple that either gave me fits or I feel would be a good one to talk about. Some will be long and some short, but I hope to give you a lot of info.
As you see the title of this post is GMC Yukon Denali Console Lids, this is one I run across pretty much on a daily basis and one that can be a booger to fix. I thought today this would be a good one since I worked on 2 of them just today.
The console lids peel ! The dye they use from the factory is I feel just a little to delicate to be using for a console lid, but never the less, they are repairable with the right dye and the right know how.
My pictures might not be the best, due to the fact I'm using my phone and the lighting is not the best, but you can get a general idea of what I'm doing.
These are before and after shots of the GMC Yukon Denali console lids that I have repaired. If you can see in the first shot the areas around the lids and just above the larger lid there are areas where the dye has peeled off. Its exposed the black plastic underneath and just looks, well bad.
I first clean the area really well with my prepping solution and scotch brite pad, now this is just a preliminary clean to get all the grime and silicone off so the tape will stick. Now I use the green tape, as you can see, it seems to stick better then regular masking tape, it's got more sticky to it. I also use the 2" wide tape, it's a little harder to handle but I like it because it's wide and I don't have to use paper. ( 3M 2" GREEN MASKING TAPE )
I mask off the wood grain trim and the CD player, this ensures my job will look tip top when I'm done. Now depending on how well your gun control is will depend on whether you need more then just tape. You can cover the seats with towels ect.
Once the area is masked off, I start my prep. I take my prepping solution and my scotch brite pad and clean and scuff the whole console area. The areas where the peeling is I will try to peel some of the areas off with my scotch brite pad so to give it kinda a strait line, not just a bunch of chunks out of the dye, this is a prelim to my next step. Wipe it down or blow it out good, and don't get the flakes from the console area on the seats, it will stick if it drys on there.
Now here is a crucial step and it can be a pain in the butt if you use too much or the dye doesn't cooperate. Take a strip of 400 grit sandpaper, fold it in thirds, and grab your Sems Sand Free ( Sand Free - Aerosol ). This is the only way to get the edges of the dye to feather. If you were to just use sandpaper, the dye would just peel and keep peeling, not giving you a good smooth edge which will show if you don't use this step.
Spray an end of the sandpaper and sand the areas where the peeling is. You will see the edge of the peel melt and start to smear around. Sand until it is dry and starts to roll up, lighten up on the sanding and stop. Look at the area and see if it's smooth, if not repeat. Now heres the tricky part, if you use to much of the Sems Sand Free the dye will start to pucker and then you have a larger area to fix. So don't just go hog wild, this is a pretty delicate sanding trick, just take your time and let the chemical flash out before you apply any more. Sand all the areas that have peeling going on, but don't sand the rest of the area with the Sems, you can I guess but there really no need to and you might get to much chemical in one spot and create more work, the next step will scuff the other areas for dye.
Next take your scotch brite pad and dry sand the rest of the console area, this will scuff the area for dye and remove any ruff areas from the Sems.
Alright, now you need to clean the area again to get all the sanding bits away and so you have a good clean surface for the dye. Wipe the area down with a lint free towel and your prepping solution sprayed on the towel, this will remove any fingerprints, and the rest of the grime.
If you use a plastic primer, apply it now. I usually use a wet paper towel to apply my primer. I use a grip base, which is a water based sticky primer. This gives the water based dye a glue like substance to adhere to and helps with oil migration from hands. Basically makes the dye stick.
It's time for your water based dye. I use water based because it's water based they use from the factory. Remember me talking about using too much chemical and the dye puckers, well thats what will happen if you use a solvent based dye, so only water based, no rattle cans.
I mix my dye by eye, and I came up with a little formula that works pretty good. I mix my dye to match the darker gray dash, then add silver. It matches really good, sometimes I have to tweak a little with some yellow oxide and white, but normally not. Don't forget your crosslinker and make sure your strain your dye.
Spay about 3 coats of dye, drying in between. Usually the areas that were peeling will disappear pretty quickly, but I try to put about 3 coats just to be safe. Sometimes around the areas that had the damage I will turn the air down on my gun so that little droplets of dye come out, this gives it a little texture and helps to hide the damage.
Finally, topcoat with a low gloss topcoat with a little slip additive added to it to give you a soft feel to the finished product. Peel your tape off, and there you go a new console, if you did it right.
All I can say is that this is a tricky little repair, but if you take your time and pay attention, you will have a new console when your done, and one that will last.
If you've got any questions don't hesitate to comment or join my forum and post it there. Talk to ya soon
Mike " TIG"