Painting Plastic Gauge Cluster Mounts To Match
- Prepping solution. This can be a number of things, some use Wax and Grease Remover others just use soap and water. Both will work but definatily use something to remove any silicone and grease, paint doesn’t stick to silicone and grease.
- Scotch brite pad to scuff and clean the surface
- Paper Towels preferably the Blue Shop Towels, less lint and fuzzys left behind
- Solvent adhesion promoter or water borne adhesion promoter
- Sems Classic Dye to match or Vipers Pro Series Water Based dye
Once you have your supplies, it’s time to prep. I’ve found the easiest way to do this is in the sink. Just put the gauge cluster under warm water with your Scotch Brite pad scrub the entire cluster mount, add a little dish soap to the pad and scrub every inch that will be painted. Paying close attention to the crevices and creases. You want to scuff it all, this will make sure that down the line sometime the paint doesn’t start flaking off. Once done dry off with a clean towel, try not to touch the surface if you can, fingerprints have oils in them.
Next thing is a really crucial part and that is the adhesion promoter. This will ensure your paint will stick for years to come. Apply the solvent based Bulldog Adhesion Promoter by spraying one light coat, let dry, then apply another heavier coat let tack up then dye. If your using water based then I like to use a wet Bounty Paper Towel, just pour a little on the towel and wipe it on.
Dying or painting the gauge cluster mount to match is your last step. If your using the Sems in a rattle can, shake the can thoroughly to get it all mixed up. Hold the can about 8 to 10 inches away and with sweeping bursts spray light coats at a time letting them tack up a little between. About 3 to 4 coats should be enough unless your having to go a really light color then a few more may be needed. But don’t load the dye on or you’ll lose the factory look.
Now if your using water based dyes, light coats drying between. I had a guy leave me a comment a while back about painting plastic with water based dyes. He was having a problem with the dyes running. The first thing I thought of was that he may have watered his dye down. The dyes shouldn’t need to be thinned, but if you do need to a little at a time, or you will have problems. The other thing I thought was that maybe when he sprayed it on the plastic he didn’t spray light coats drying between. When I say light coats I mean the first coat really looks like you didn’t put dye on at all. The trick is building it up. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if the dye is ready for a second coat, but I usually look for the dye to “mat out”. What I mean by this is when the dye dries it turns to a mat finish, then your ready for a second coat. By doing it this way you will get maximum adhesion from your dye and the outcome will look factory. Water based does take a little more patience to work with but the outcome is so much nicer I think.
K, here it is the gauge cluster painted to match. Now this will look a heck of a lot better hanging up there then some black looking “thing” stuck up on the pillar for all to see. Not to custom, huh?
Now they’ll see a custom job and know that you really care what your vehicle looks like.
This job took me all of about 30 minutes to complete and the customer was extremely pleased. That little piece laying next to the cluster mount was the piece he gave me to match the dye off of. I match all my dyes by eye so this was a little bit difficult because of the size of the item, next time I’ll get a bigger piece to go off of, but I did it and it looked great.
Well I wish you luck on painting your gauge clusters to match. If you need anything don’t hesitate to contact me.
If your one that would like to have a professional job done then just give me ring and I will be happy to take care of those little details that make your ride stand out from the rest crowd.
Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”
Stumble it!
