Painting Plastic - Silver Trim Turning Black

Well I hope your holiday weekend was a good one. Labor Day is always the last blast of the summer here for us. We spent our time at the lake soaking up some sun, and fun. It was a beautiful weekend, and the lake was finally back down to pretty much normal from all the rain we've had here. This year was definitely one for the record books. With the lake being up so far and so murky that the fishing has been terrible, but I did manage to pull a few out this year. I caught two this time down, a 14" and a 15" Bass, not real sure what the weight was on them though, but they were a couple of beauty's.

As I was sitting there on the dock this weekend I couldn't help to think of what I was going to write this week. I started thinking of some jobs that have been somewhat of booger for me, and I couldn't help to think of the fist time I painted silver plastic trim. You know where the paint rubs off or scratches off and leaves you the black plastic underneath.

It was on a Mitsubishi Eclipse door trim. I freaked out, and the reason being is that I mixed all my paints by eye and I remembered with exterior paints how many different shades you got with metallics, a bazillion.... The only shade of metallic I had on board was straight silver, gold, and pearl. Man....I thought how am I going to get this to look right. So off to mixing I went.... By looking at the plastic trim piece, it was silver metallic, but with a brownish gold look to it, and darker then straight silver. I started with silver, added a little brown, then a drop or two of black to darken it, and a little yellow oxide to give it that yellowish gold look.

When mixing metallics, one thing to keep in mind is using the color white, if you need it lighter, then try adding a little pearl white or more silver if you added to much black or if it's to dark. The reason, you will milk it out and lose your metallic look. White is just not good with silver, but there are cases where you will use it, just add a little at a time.

Now with testing metallic paint you can't just dab a little and dry to see if your colors right. Reason being is that the metallic flake in the paint will lay flat and show darker then it really is, what you want is the metallics to stand up and sparkle. So the only way to check your color is to spray it. Spray a little spot, light coats, and see if it disappears against the color your going for, if it does then your there. You can almost see if your ok by just looking at your mixer, but by spraying a little you'll be for sure.

Prepping the area is pretty simple, but there are some do's and don'ts . Most of the plastic trim, I've found, don't have a large amount of dye on them. Now, I call it dye because you use your vinyl dye to paint the plastic, so I'll probably go back and forth calling it dye and paint. Anyways, if you take a scotch brite pad and your prepping solution, ( alcohol, acetone, THP substitute, ammonia, and water ), and spray the plastic trim piece and scrub, most if not all the paint will come off, and at the same time your scuffing the plastic for the dye. You can strip it all off or leave a little depending on the amount of paint missing, the prepping solution works a lot like Sem Sand Free in that it feathers the edge. But if you need your Sem Sand Free then go for it, it works on the smaller stuff just as good ( like just a scratch or something ). Don't use sandpaper with a heavier grit then say 400, or you will leave sanding marks that will show up in your finished product. If you have a scratch thats needing filled or just sanded out, you can use a heavier grit but always finish with a finer grit to remove the marks. Wipe it clean, with a lint free towel so to not get fuzzies in your job.

Once prepped, mask the area off, apply your grip base or sticky primer, then spray. Now with spraying metallic paint, or dye, you always use light coats and don't hold your gun too close or in one spot for too long. You will get what they call modeling your paint. What this is, is a dark shadow in the paint. What causes this is the metallic flakes laying flat and showing you a dark shadow in your paint. So light even coats, and dry between. This will give you the effect you need and make the finished product look like it's supposed to.

Topcoats are another thing too. When your done your work will have either a glossy finish or a mat finish, look around the vehicle to see if you need either or. Always topcoat your work, but make sure you get the right sheen. I've noticed both, so check it out, if you spray it with mat and it's supposed to be glossy it will show and won't match the rest of the vehicle.

That Mitsubishi Eclipse by the way, turned out really good and yours will too with a little practice and know how. I hope I gave you the know how on painting plastic silver, now it's up to you for the practice.

Talk to ya soon - Mike "TIG"

Comments

Don,
I feel your pain with the solvent based dyes, I used to use them long ago and struggled with that same thing, solvents bubble water based dyes and theres nothing you can do about it but use water based paints. Thats what they use from the factory so why not use what they are. If your getting runs in your water based dyes then it sounds like your dye is to thin. You shouldn't have to thin the dyes you get. Another thing that will help is to use an HVLP paint gun, turn the air up to say 30 0r 40 psi and spray thin coats drying between coats with a hairdryer. Don't rush the process of painting, thin coats will get you results without the runs and you will get better adhesion. Where are you getting your dyes from and are you using a gun or a preval?

I have had trouble with painting or dying the plastic trim solvent based bubbles the paint water based seems to always leave runs whats your soluttion

prep with bulldog ad-promoter then spray your color.bulldog helps prevent bubbling.

Donnie,
Hey good to hear from ya, Bulldog is the bomb! I use the stuff a lot when I use my solvents. It doesn't work really well with waterborne dye though. I guess if you let it dry before you dye, but then you run into the problem of it bubbling the existing dye. I've had it happen before, like on the GM dashes. Way back when I used to only use solvent based dyes and ran into that a lot. The bubbling was the main reason I switched over to water based paints and dyes. Most all vehicles today are dyed with water based so I kinda had to make a switch. Bulldog works great for solvents though. One thing you do have to do is let it dry before you color, if you don't the color will peel later.

Later,
Mike "TIG"

Lee Bowerman Art...

Have enjoyed your site very much and benefited from the information. Thank You....

mike im restoring a 67 chevelle working on the interior need to know the best products to use to refinish the plastic parts chevy medium black the pieces are all original, 4 speed console, kick panels ect.