Comments for Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy http://theinteriorguyllc.com Here For All Your Upholstery Repair Needs Tue, 06 Jan 2009 10:03:02 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.7 hourly 1 Comment on Painting Plastic - Silver Trim Turning Black by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/plastic-painting-silver-trim/comment-page-1/#comment-946 Mike-TIG Tue, 06 Jan 2009 02:57:24 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=205#comment-946 Donnie, Hey good to hear from ya, Bulldog is the bomb! I use the stuff a lot when I use my solvents. It doesn't work really well with waterborne dye though. I guess if you let it dry before you dye, but then you run into the problem of it bubbling the existing dye. I've had it happen before, like on the GM dashes. Way back when I used to only use solvent based dyes and ran into that a lot. The bubbling was the main reason I switched over to water based paints and dyes. Most all vehicles today are dyed with water based so I kinda had to make a switch. Bulldog works great for solvents though. One thing you do have to do is let it dry before you color, if you don't the color will peel later. Later, Mike "TIG" Donnie,
Hey good to hear from ya, Bulldog is the bomb! I use the stuff a lot when I use my solvents. It doesn’t work really well with waterborne dye though. I guess if you let it dry before you dye, but then you run into the problem of it bubbling the existing dye. I’ve had it happen before, like on the GM dashes. Way back when I used to only use solvent based dyes and ran into that a lot. The bubbling was the main reason I switched over to water based paints and dyes. Most all vehicles today are dyed with water based so I kinda had to make a switch. Bulldog works great for solvents though. One thing you do have to do is let it dry before you color, if you don’t the color will peel later.

Later,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on Painting Plastic - Silver Trim Turning Black by donnie http://theinteriorguyllc.com/plastic-painting-silver-trim/comment-page-1/#comment-945 donnie Tue, 06 Jan 2009 01:14:47 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=205#comment-945 prep with bulldog ad-promoter then spray your color.bulldog helps prevent bubbling. prep with bulldog ad-promoter then spray your color.bulldog helps prevent bubbling.

]]> Comment on How To Fix The Creases In Leather by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/fix-creases-leather/comment-page-1/#comment-944 Mike-TIG Sat, 03 Jan 2009 04:18:34 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/how-to-fix-the-creases-in-leather/#comment-944 Alex, Wow...That's a first one on me, sure it smells nice too. There really isn't a cheap fix. Sure you could use a rattle can dye to cover up the spot, but the problem with cheap fixes is they don't last. Do you really want to go cheap. You spent the extra money to get leather so why not keep it looking nice and do it the right way. My recommendation would be to contact an <strong>Upholstery Repair Professional</strong> like myself and have it repaired right. We use water based dyes which are made for leather and compounds that are made to last, that's what I think you really want, am I right. I understand cutting corners but to have a small spot repaired should only cost you at the most $50. The rattle can dye and the prepping supplies would cost you close to that anyways, so really this ones up to you. If your still interested in doing it yourself though, let me know, contact me through email or even call me, and I'll walk you through it. Talk to ya soon, Mike "TIG" Alex,
Wow…That’s a first one on me, sure it smells nice too. There really isn’t a cheap fix. Sure you could use a rattle can dye to cover up the spot, but the problem with cheap fixes is they don’t last. Do you really want to go cheap. You spent the extra money to get leather so why not keep it looking nice and do it the right way. My recommendation would be to contact an Upholstery Repair Professional like myself and have it repaired right. We use water based dyes which are made for leather and compounds that are made to last, that’s what I think you really want, am I right. I understand cutting corners but to have a small spot repaired should only cost you at the most $50. The rattle can dye and the prepping supplies would cost you close to that anyways, so really this ones up to you. If your still interested in doing it yourself though, let me know, contact me through email or even call me, and I’ll walk you through it.

Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on How To Fix The Creases In Leather by Alex http://theinteriorguyllc.com/fix-creases-leather/comment-page-1/#comment-943 Alex Fri, 02 Jan 2009 17:01:13 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/how-to-fix-the-creases-in-leather/#comment-943 Hello, My son and his friends shot fireworks off in my car it has leather upholstry and they left a burn mark. It mage that top color come off but it didn't make a hole. Whats a Inexpensive way to fix it? Thank you Hello, My son and his friends shot fireworks off in my car it has leather upholstry and they left a burn mark. It mage that top color come off but it didn’t make a hole. Whats a Inexpensive way to fix it? Thank you

]]> Comment on Steering Wheel Covers Doing More Harm by John Mangiapane http://theinteriorguyllc.com/steering-wheel-covers/comment-page-1/#comment-915 John Mangiapane Wed, 17 Dec 2008 08:13:01 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=9#comment-915 Thanks Mike for your time and advice. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again and have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. .::John Thanks Mike for your time and advice. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again and have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

.::John

]]> Comment on Steering Wheel Covers Doing More Harm by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/steering-wheel-covers/comment-page-1/#comment-914 Mike-TIG Wed, 17 Dec 2008 01:57:33 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=9#comment-914 John, My thought with the baking soda was to neutralize the area that had been cleaned at the same time getting rid of the stickyness with the powder. Just apply it mixed with a little water and rub it on with a wash cloth, then dry with a clean towel, you might even take a little dry and rub on there. Or even a little baby powder. Just trying to soak up what is in the leather and make it soft feeling again. The clear is probably gone like you said, the chemicals that have been used are probably in the leather which is making it sticky. What you put on leather stays in leather. For future reference always use a neutral cleaner to clean any leather, Lexol ph Cleaner is the best for all leather stuffs, any harsher you run the risk of stripping the leather of it's top coat. One of my suppliers is located in Stockton, California, the name of the company is Fiztgerald's Restoration. They probably would have a tech in your area. Fitzgerald's number is (800) 441-3326, ask for Randy and tell him I sent you, he's a great guy and would be more then happy to send you a local pro. Well John it's been my pleasure helping you with your problem steering wheel, I hope you find a leather pro in your area to redye the wheel. If there's anything else you need don't hesitate to get a hold of me, that's what I'm here for. One thing though let me know what you do find out. Talk to ya soon, Mike "TIG" John,
My thought with the baking soda was to neutralize the area that had been cleaned at the same time getting rid of the stickyness with the powder. Just apply it mixed with a little water and rub it on with a wash cloth, then dry with a clean towel, you might even take a little dry and rub on there. Or even a little baby powder. Just trying to soak up what is in the leather and make it soft feeling again.
The clear is probably gone like you said, the chemicals that have been used are probably in the leather which is making it sticky. What you put on leather stays in leather. For future reference always use a neutral cleaner to clean any leather, Lexol ph Cleaner is the best for all leather stuffs, any harsher you run the risk of stripping the leather of it’s top coat.
One of my suppliers is located in Stockton, California, the name of the company is Fiztgerald’s Restoration. They probably would have a tech in your area. Fitzgerald’s number is (800) 441-3326, ask for Randy and tell him I sent you, he’s a great guy and would be more then happy to send you a local pro.
Well John it’s been my pleasure helping you with your problem steering wheel, I hope you find a leather pro in your area to redye the wheel. If there’s anything else you need don’t hesitate to get a hold of me, that’s what I’m here for. One thing though let me know what you do find out.

Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on Steering Wheel Covers Doing More Harm by John Mangiapane http://theinteriorguyllc.com/steering-wheel-covers/comment-page-1/#comment-910 John Mangiapane Tue, 16 Dec 2008 07:43:54 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=9#comment-910 Hey Mike, Thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate you taking the time. I am in San Jose California and just realized you are in Missouri, so bringing it by wont be an option. Just to be clear, using the baking soda would neutralize the area and smooth out the surface? Otherwise a resurface would be needed. Correct? Would anything else need to be done after I scrub it with the baking soda? How would you recommend applying it. Possibly with a tooth brush? What do you think about the Mr. Clean Eraser product? I have read amazing things on this product and it can be used on all surfaces. I read that it has helped many people with this problem, but I am skeptical. I feel much safer using baking soda if that will possibly get rid of my problem. The area in which the wheel is effected is only located at the 12'oclock position and the 5 o'clock position. The same places your hands would be if you drive like most people at 12'oclock (with the left) and with the right elbow resting on the arm rest and holding the wheel at 5 o'clock. Making it clear to me that someone had something on their hands. It almost seems like the "clear coat" of the steering wheel has been worn off in these areas. Lately (since it has become pretty cold outside), it is not really sticky anymore, but its not a smooth surface like the rest of the steering wheel and it drives me crazy, because it is in the area I normally hold the wheel. In any case Mike, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I feel I finally have answers, from someone who knows what they are talking about. The forums on some of these enthusiast sites.. are full of things that can really do some harm to the inside of a car. Thanks again Mike. John Hey Mike,

Thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate you taking the time. I am in San Jose California and just realized you are in Missouri, so bringing it by wont be an option. Just to be clear, using the baking soda would neutralize the area and smooth out the surface? Otherwise a resurface would be needed. Correct? Would anything else need to be done after I scrub it with the baking soda? How would you recommend applying it. Possibly with a tooth brush? What do you think about the Mr. Clean Eraser product? I have read amazing things on this product and it can be used on all surfaces. I read that it has helped many people with this problem, but I am skeptical. I feel much safer using baking soda if that will possibly get rid of my problem.

The area in which the wheel is effected is only located at the 12′oclock position and the 5 o’clock position. The same places your hands would be if you drive like most people at 12′oclock (with the left) and with the right elbow resting on the arm rest and holding the wheel at 5 o’clock. Making it clear to me that someone had something on their hands.

It almost seems like the “clear coat” of the steering wheel has been worn off in these areas. Lately (since it has become pretty cold outside), it is not really sticky anymore, but its not a smooth surface like the rest of the steering wheel and it drives me crazy, because it is in the area I normally hold the wheel.

In any case Mike, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I feel I finally have answers, from someone who knows what they are talking about. The forums on some of these enthusiast sites.. are full of things that can really do some harm to the inside of a car.

Thanks again Mike.

John

]]> Comment on Steering Wheel Covers Doing More Harm by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/steering-wheel-covers/comment-page-1/#comment-908 Mike-TIG Mon, 15 Dec 2008 22:56:18 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=9#comment-908 John, Man would I be mad....You would think the dealer would take a little more responsibility then that. It almost sounds like maybe he had something caustic on his hands and the cleaners your putting on there are caustic also. What we need to do is neutralize the area. One thing you could do is to rub baking soda on the area, this should neutralize anything that was put on there and should smooth out the leather and give it a soft feel again. If that doesn't work then resurfacing the wheel is the only option other then putting a cover over it. As you can see from my article I'm not a real big fan of the steering wheel covers, to me they just look cheap and really do harm the wheel. But in a situation where the steering wheel is to far gone then a cover can save a wheel from falling apart completely. The cover you found would be ok, they look better then most when installed but they still look like a cover has been put on and don't really have a factory look. If you can, try getting your steering wheel re-dyed. This will eliminate the sticky problem and give you the look I think your wanting. If your in the area give me a call, I'd be glad to fix it for you. Cost wise it would cost you as much to re-dye it then it would be to purchase that cover your looking at. Or see if the dealer you got the rig from would be willing to set you up with their interior repair pro. Well I hope I could help. Talk to ya soon, Mike "TIG" John,
Man would I be mad….You would think the dealer would take a little more responsibility then that.
It almost sounds like maybe he had something caustic on his hands and the cleaners your putting on there are caustic also. What we need to do is neutralize the area. One thing you could do is to rub baking soda on the area, this should neutralize anything that was put on there and should smooth out the leather and give it a soft feel again. If that doesn’t work then resurfacing the wheel is the only option other then putting a cover over it.
As you can see from my article I’m not a real big fan of the steering wheel covers, to me they just look cheap and really do harm the wheel. But in a situation where the steering wheel is to far gone then a cover can save a wheel from falling apart completely. The cover you found would be ok, they look better then most when installed but they still look like a cover has been put on and don’t really have a factory look.
If you can, try getting your steering wheel re-dyed. This will eliminate the sticky problem and give you the look I think your wanting.
If your in the area give me a call, I’d be glad to fix it for you. Cost wise it would cost you as much to re-dye it then it would be to purchase that cover your looking at. Or see if the dealer you got the rig from would be willing to set you up with their interior repair pro.
Well I hope I could help.

Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on Steering Wheel Covers Doing More Harm by John Mangiapane http://theinteriorguyllc.com/steering-wheel-covers/comment-page-1/#comment-906 John Mangiapane Mon, 15 Dec 2008 03:24:13 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=9#comment-906 Thank you for this article. I have a small problem. I bought a 2008 Tundra and the day i bought it, a guy at the dealership jumped out of the car after detailing it and I noticed his hands were really dirty. When i sat in the truck, I put my steering hand on the top of the steering wheel and noticed that the steering wheel was sticky. No problem, I will just go home and clean it right? Wrong, I went home tried to clean it with none damaging cleaner (simple green) and it was still sticky. I tried goo gone, and it still remained sticky. I even tried 303 cleaner and it still did not work. I have spent nearly 50 bucks on cleaner and cannot seem to get my brand new truck's steering wheel to be smooth again. I took it to the dealer and of course, I'm told that I would have to buy another steering wheel and there is nothing they can do for me. I beg you for any advice you can give me. I thought about buying this cover, becuase I don't want some piece of junk on my steering wheel and do not want to make my steering wheel any thicker. Tell me what you think. http://www.autoanything.com/steeringwheel-covers/60A3792A0A0.aspx Thanks in advance for your help, John Thank you for this article. I have a small problem. I bought a 2008 Tundra and the day i bought it, a guy at the dealership jumped out of the car after detailing it and I noticed his hands were really dirty. When i sat in the truck, I put my steering hand on the top of the steering wheel and noticed that the steering wheel was sticky. No problem, I will just go home and clean it right? Wrong, I went home tried to clean it with none damaging cleaner (simple green) and it was still sticky. I tried goo gone, and it still remained sticky. I even tried 303 cleaner and it still did not work. I have spent nearly 50 bucks on cleaner and cannot seem to get my brand new truck’s steering wheel to be smooth again. I took it to the dealer and of course, I’m told that I would have to buy another steering wheel and there is nothing they can do for me. I beg you for any advice you can give me.

I thought about buying this cover, becuase I don’t want some piece of junk on my steering wheel and do not want to make my steering wheel any thicker. Tell me what you think.

http://www.autoanything.com/steeringwheel-covers/60A3792A0A0.aspx

Thanks in advance for your help,

John

]]> Comment on How To Remove Stains In Leather Seats by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/hstains-in-leather-seats/comment-page-1/#comment-904 Mike-TIG Sun, 14 Dec 2008 02:56:26 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=81#comment-904 Michelle, My guess is that it truly is leather. Most leather kits that I have seen are true leather. Now with most all leather kits, not all is leather though. The face of the seat is the only leather. The sides and back of the seat are vinyl. Sounds like you kinda get ripped off when they say they just put a leather kit in your car, but they do this for cost and durability reasons. Leather hides are not cheap and to have an entire seat wrapped in leather would cost you a fortune, so the manufactures use vinyl where needed. In fact in some of the newer vehicles they are even using vinyl on the face of the seats. With the high rise bolsters in some cars, leather doesn't wear as well as vinyl, the new Corvette is one example, the only leather in those are a small strip down the center of the seat. Vinyl has come along way and some wears, feels, and looks even better then leather. If you looking to make sure you have leather, then you almost have to remove the covers to really tell, unless you can feel the difference. Leather and vinyl do have a different feel. You almost have to be able to see the backside of the material to really tell, leather will have a raw leather showing where as vinyl will have a cloth backing. So with that said, feel pretty confident that you got leather. But also feel confident that you made a good choice by putting a leather kit in you vehicle. Not only does it add value to your car and a great look, but you will enjoy the fact of being able to keep it looking cleaner longer. The cloth in the new Nissan's hold stains like a magnet. I've seen 2008's with next to no miles on them with unremoveable stains in the cloth, the new cloth is terrible. Well I hope this helps and enjoy your new Murano those are really nice vehicles. Talk to ya soon, Mike "TIG" Michelle,
My guess is that it truly is leather. Most leather kits that I have seen are true leather. Now with most all leather kits, not all is leather though. The face of the seat is the only leather. The sides and back of the seat are vinyl. Sounds like you kinda get ripped off when they say they just put a leather kit in your car, but they do this for cost and durability reasons. Leather hides are not cheap and to have an entire seat wrapped in leather would cost you a fortune, so the manufactures use vinyl where needed. In fact in some of the newer vehicles they are even using vinyl on the face of the seats. With the high rise bolsters in some cars, leather doesn’t wear as well as vinyl, the new Corvette is one example, the only leather in those are a small strip down the center of the seat. Vinyl has come along way and some wears, feels, and looks even better then leather.
If you looking to make sure you have leather, then you almost have to remove the covers to really tell, unless you can feel the difference. Leather and vinyl do have a different feel. You almost have to be able to see the backside of the material to really tell, leather will have a raw leather showing where as vinyl will have a cloth backing. So with that said, feel pretty confident that you got leather. But also feel confident that you made a good choice by putting a leather kit in you vehicle. Not only does it add value to your car and a great look, but you will enjoy the fact of being able to keep it looking cleaner longer. The cloth in the new Nissan’s hold stains like a magnet. I’ve seen 2008’s with next to no miles on them with unremoveable stains in the cloth, the new cloth is terrible.
Well I hope this helps and enjoy your new Murano those are really nice vehicles.

Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on How To Remove Stains In Leather Seats by Michelle http://theinteriorguyllc.com/hstains-in-leather-seats/comment-page-1/#comment-903 Michelle Sat, 13 Dec 2008 17:16:42 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=81#comment-903 I just bought a 2009 Nissan Murano, it came with cloth, but had a leather package put in it, and when i got it back i have doubts that it infact really is leather....or is it a leatherette? Can you tell me how to tell if it's really NOT leather!? Thanks! :) I just bought a 2009 Nissan Murano, it came with cloth, but had a leather package put in it, and when i got it back i have doubts that it infact really is leather….or is it a leatherette? Can you tell me how to tell if it’s really NOT leather!?
Thanks! :)

]]> Comment on Contact by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-899 Mike-TIG Fri, 12 Dec 2008 01:59:36 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/contact/#comment-899 Hey Mike, Thank you.....That's what I wanted to do when I started this site was to bring everybody together and share each others expertise so that our customers will pay for the best and get the best. This fly by the seat of your pants automotive interior repair is in my idea, just taking advantage of people and putting a bad name out there for our industry. Not everyone can do what we do, interior repair is a craft and there is a lot of skill and artistic ability that goes into a repair. I just want things to be honest and trust worthy so everyone benefits. I'm a firm believer in what comes around goes around. K, I'm off my soap box, onto your questions, as far as temperature for your heat gun, low temp compounds cure out at around 225 degrees and your high temp compounds around 350 degrees. When the repair compounds get shiny and transparent when heated then your cured. I usually on a vinyl repair say on a seat side will make the vinyl smoke before I press my grain into it. With leather repair though it's a little different, you don't want to burn or shrink the leather so watch the low heat compound close. When it's clear or white, depending on the type your using, then your there pull the heat away and press the grain. It's really in the look, after a while you just kinda know when it's ready. But I've also been doing this for like ever, so you just have to play with it a little and see which temps work best. One little hint though on door panels use a lower heat the vinyls have a tendency to shrink and your hole gets bigger. Now as far as the rubbing alcohol, you can use any brand as long as you get the 90% +, in fact I buy mine at Walmart when we go grocery shopping. So how is business in your neck of the woods. Here's not to bad right now, spotty is a good word for it. Looking to maybe do a little advertising to the public and venture out from the dealers a little while things are a little slow with them. I've always worked on word of mouth, and it's mostly been from the dealers. I've found that the public really doesn't know what I really can do and the amount of money I can save them. I find they will replace panels in seats and buy new steering wheels, ect. not knowing that a leather repair professional like myself even exists and could repair their seat or steering wheel for a fraction of the cost and it last and it look factory. So wish me luck on that little adventure. Well hope all is well on your end, and if you get a chance to join my forum and maybe others will follow, I've been trying to get that thing going for some time. You can even put your business name and stuff to advertise your business, I did this so if someone in your area was needing help they would know who to call. Talk to ya soon, Mike "TIG" Hey Mike,
Thank you…..That’s what I wanted to do when I started this site was to bring everybody together and share each others expertise so that our customers will pay for the best and get the best. This fly by the seat of your pants automotive interior repair is in my idea, just taking advantage of people and putting a bad name out there for our industry. Not everyone can do what we do, interior repair is a craft and there is a lot of skill and artistic ability that goes into a repair. I just want things to be honest and trust worthy so everyone benefits. I’m a firm believer in what comes around goes around.
K, I’m off my soap box, onto your questions, as far as temperature for your heat gun, low temp compounds cure out at around 225 degrees and your high temp compounds around 350 degrees. When the repair compounds get shiny and transparent when heated then your cured. I usually on a vinyl repair say on a seat side will make the vinyl smoke before I press my grain into it. With leather repair though it’s a little different, you don’t want to burn or shrink the leather so watch the low heat compound close. When it’s clear or white, depending on the type your using, then your there pull the heat away and press the grain. It’s really in the look, after a while you just kinda know when it’s ready. But I’ve also been doing this for like ever, so you just have to play with it a little and see which temps work best. One little hint though on door panels use a lower heat the vinyls have a tendency to shrink and your hole gets bigger.

Now as far as the rubbing alcohol, you can use any brand as long as you get the 90% +, in fact I buy mine at Walmart when we go grocery shopping.

So how is business in your neck of the woods. Here’s not to bad right now, spotty is a good word for it. Looking to maybe do a little advertising to the public and venture out from the dealers a little while things are a little slow with them. I’ve always worked on word of mouth, and it’s mostly been from the dealers. I’ve found that the public really doesn’t know what I really can do and the amount of money I can save them. I find they will replace panels in seats and buy new steering wheels, ect. not knowing that a leather repair professional like myself even exists and could repair their seat or steering wheel for a fraction of the cost and it last and it look factory. So wish me luck on that little adventure.
Well hope all is well on your end, and if you get a chance to join my forum and maybe others will follow, I’ve been trying to get that thing going for some time. You can even put your business name and stuff to advertise your business, I did this so if someone in your area was needing help they would know who to call.

Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on Contact by Mike B. http://theinteriorguyllc.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-898 Mike B. Thu, 11 Dec 2008 16:04:50 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/contact/#comment-898 Hey Mike, What a great site! I've been in the business for a few years now and your site has been very helpful. I have a couple questions for you: 1. I recently purchased an electronic variable temp heat gun, per your recommendation. What temperature do you set for curing vinyl compound(both low & regular temp compound)? 2. When adding alcohol to your WB coatings, does "brand" matter(i.e.-SEM,Viper, etc.)? Thanks again for all your advice! You are helping bring our industry to the next level. Regards, Mike Hey Mike,

What a great site! I’ve been in the business for a few years now and your site has been very helpful. I have a couple questions for you: 1. I recently purchased an electronic variable temp heat gun, per your recommendation. What temperature do you set for curing vinyl compound(both low & regular temp compound)? 2. When adding alcohol to your WB coatings, does “brand” matter(i.e.-SEM,Viper, etc.)? Thanks again for all your advice! You are helping bring our industry to the next level.

Regards,
Mike

]]> Comment on Leather Seat Turning Blue by ultragreen http://theinteriorguyllc.com/leather-turning-blue/comment-page-1/#comment-884 ultragreen Sun, 07 Dec 2008 01:56:35 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=514#comment-884 One of my buddies is always talking about your blog at work - finally came and checked it out today, nice work! I'm subscribing to your rss feed - keep on posting! One of my buddies is always talking about your blog at work - finally came and checked it out today, nice work! I’m subscribing to your rss feed - keep on posting!

]]> Comment on Contact by Leather Seat Turning Blue » Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy http://theinteriorguyllc.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-883 Leather Seat Turning Blue » Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy Sat, 06 Dec 2008 05:29:17 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/contact/#comment-883 [...] Contact [...] [...] Contact [...]

]]> Comment on Cracked Dash Repair by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/cracked-dash-repair/comment-page-1/#comment-881 Mike-TIG Sat, 06 Dec 2008 04:26:02 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=501#comment-881 Priya, Hey...So we are fixing a hole in a dash. Sounds like a fun project. As far as dye to use, it depends on where the repair is and what year and make the vehicle is. If it's a newer car I would recommend a water based dye, due to fact that all newer vehicles have water based dyes used from the factory. If done correctly you will have a lasting repair. The solvent based dyes work okay... for the older rigs, they can be used without any problems to the existing surface. Hope this helps, Mike The Interior Guy Priya,

Hey…So we are fixing a hole in a dash.

Sounds like a fun project.

As far as dye to use, it depends on where the repair is and what year and make the vehicle is. If it’s a newer car I would recommend a water based dye, due to fact that all newer vehicles have water based dyes used from the factory. If done correctly you will have a lasting repair. The solvent based dyes work okay… for the older rigs, they can be used without any problems to the existing surface.

Hope this helps,

Mike
The Interior Guy

]]> Comment on Cracked Dash Repair by Priya http://theinteriorguyllc.com/cracked-dash-repair/comment-page-1/#comment-880 Priya Fri, 05 Dec 2008 16:03:26 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=501#comment-880 Hello, I want to fill a hole in my dash. I was planning on using the padded dash filler, but didn't know what kind of paint/dye to use. Thanks, Priya Hello,

I want to fill a hole in my dash. I was planning on using the padded dash filler, but didn’t know what kind of paint/dye to use.

Thanks,

Priya

]]> Comment on How To Remove Stains In Leather Seats by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/hstains-in-leather-seats/comment-page-1/#comment-876 Mike-TIG Tue, 02 Dec 2008 04:59:26 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=81#comment-876 Laura, Hi... Well denatured alcohol is a little harsh but not a bad thing to use, I've used it before to remove marks and to prep leather before I dye. When you say it took the finish off, are you saying the dye. Do you see raw leather, like a darker spot where you rubbed, or is it just kinda dull looking or clean looking? Black marks on leather can be a pain. Most of the time I can remove them with my prepping solution, you can find the mixer at http://theinteriorguyllc.com/paint-prep-success/, and a scotch brite pad. Now when doing this I will spray the whole area and scrub sometimes the whole seat bottom to get the right sheen. Otherwise I have a spotted seat or an area that just looks funny. Then I condition after wards. Now keep in mind I dye seats, and if this solution takes the color off when I'm scrubbing a black spot, then I know it was just not meant to come off and I have to dye it anyways. This solution can take the color off so if you use this stuff be careful. Don't scrub to hard with the scotch brite pad. Sometimes a lighter touch with the pad helps and works better anyways. When you use harsh chemicals like alcohol, acetone, ect. you remove all the oils on the top layer of the leather so if you just clean a spot then you will have a spot left by the cleaner, you know what I mean...by conditioning after you clean will bring the sheen back to your seats. There are times when a mark will just not come out and that's where I come in as a mobile leather repair professional. The seat may have to be dyed to remove the marks in the leather, and $2000, well I wish I could charge that, but a leather seat to be dyed by a professional should only cost you at the most a $100-$150 depending on whether you want the front ones to look new too. If you use a professional make sure they use a water based dye system, and check references. You don't want the dye peeling off or cracking your seats 6 months from now. If your in the Springfield, Missouri area look me up, just go to my contact page. I'd be happy to make those seats look like they did when you bought the car. Good Luck and Talk to ya soon, Mike "TIG" Laura,
Hi…
Well denatured alcohol is a little harsh but not a bad thing to use, I’ve used it before to remove marks and to prep leather before I dye.
When you say it took the finish off, are you saying the dye. Do you see raw leather, like a darker spot where you rubbed, or is it just kinda dull looking or clean looking?
Black marks on leather can be a pain. Most of the time I can remove them with my prepping solution, you can find the mixer at http://theinteriorguyllc.com/paint-prep-success/, and a scotch brite pad. Now when doing this I will spray the whole area and scrub sometimes the whole seat bottom to get the right sheen. Otherwise I have a spotted seat or an area that just looks funny. Then I condition after wards.
Now keep in mind I dye seats, and if this solution takes the color off when I’m scrubbing a black spot, then I know it was just not meant to come off and I have to dye it anyways.
This solution can take the color off so if you use this stuff be careful. Don’t scrub to hard with the scotch brite pad. Sometimes a lighter touch with the pad helps and works better anyways.
When you use harsh chemicals like alcohol, acetone, ect. you remove all the oils on the top layer of the leather so if you just clean a spot then you will have a spot left by the cleaner, you know what I mean…by conditioning after you clean will bring the sheen back to your seats.
There are times when a mark will just not come out and that’s where I come in as a mobile leather repair professional. The seat may have to be dyed to remove the marks in the leather, and $2000, well I wish I could charge that, but a leather seat to be dyed by a professional should only cost you at the most a $100-$150 depending on whether you want the front ones to look new too. If you use a professional make sure they use a water based dye system, and check references. You don’t want the dye peeling off or cracking your seats 6 months from now.
If your in the Springfield, Missouri area look me up, just go to my contact page. I’d be happy to make those seats look like they did when you bought the car.

Good Luck and Talk to ya soon,
Mike “TIG”

]]> Comment on How To Remove Stains In Leather Seats by laura http://theinteriorguyllc.com/hstains-in-leather-seats/comment-page-1/#comment-874 laura Mon, 01 Dec 2008 19:21:18 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=81#comment-874 hey, i have a brand new convertible with tan leather and now some black marks on them from im assuming me throwing various heels/boots/shoes in my backseat and then my friend cramming in and sitting on top of all of it. i have tried EVERYTHING, literally, everything. spent over 100 dollars on so many different products at every auto store i know. finally, this guy at a hardware store told me to use denatured alcohol solvent, and i rubbed it on, and now i feel like it just rubbed off the finish of my seats, and the stains are STILL THERE. i take such good care of my seats (when im not being dumb and throwing things into the backseat) and always rub them down in leather conditioner and clean them regularly but these marks are killing me! i really dont want to spend like 2000 dollars having them restored. any suggestions??? hey, i have a brand new convertible with tan leather and now some black marks on them from im assuming me throwing various heels/boots/shoes in my backseat and then my friend cramming in and sitting on top of all of it. i have tried EVERYTHING, literally, everything. spent over 100 dollars on so many different products at every auto store i know. finally, this guy at a hardware store told me to use denatured alcohol solvent, and i rubbed it on, and now i feel like it just rubbed off the finish of my seats, and the stains are STILL THERE. i take such good care of my seats (when im not being dumb and throwing things into the backseat) and always rub them down in leather conditioner and clean them regularly but these marks are killing me! i really dont want to spend like 2000 dollars having them restored. any suggestions???

]]> Comment on Heat Guns - Heating Your Repairs by Mike-TIG http://theinteriorguyllc.com/heat-guns-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-868 Mike-TIG Wed, 26 Nov 2008 03:49:55 +0000 http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=487#comment-868 Well I don't use the Steinel yet... right now I'm using a Wagner, which I set it on the 400-800 degree setting. When curing out vinyl and leather repair compounds it's more about using sight rather then temperature. The low cure, just for info, cures out at 225 and the high heat at 350 degrees. The way I do it is heating the compound quickly by holding the gun as close as I can to the repair so to heat the backside too, then pull back, then move in again, when the compound turns clear and shinny, it's cured. When doing leather be careful not to curl the leather. Use a low heat and watch really close, at the first sign of shrinkage pull the heat away. Another sign that your cure is when the vinyl begins to smoke, when this happens stop heating and press your grain pad to the repair immediately. Hope this helps, great question! Later....Mike "TIG" Well I don’t use the Steinel yet… right now I’m using a Wagner, which I set it on the 400-800 degree setting. When curing out vinyl and leather repair compounds it’s more about using sight rather then temperature. The low cure, just for info, cures out at 225 and the high heat at 350 degrees. The way I do it is heating the compound quickly by holding the gun as close as I can to the repair so to heat the backside too, then pull back, then move in again, when the compound turns clear and shinny, it’s cured. When doing leather be careful not to curl the leather. Use a low heat and watch really close, at the first sign of shrinkage pull the heat away. Another sign that your cure is when the vinyl begins to smoke, when this happens stop heating and press your grain pad to the repair immediately. Hope this helps, great question!

Later….Mike “TIG”

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