Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy

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1. 1 On April 11th, 2008, Virgil Roberts said:

   Hi Mike, I have been enjoying your articles, you have a wealth of information, and I appreciate your sharing them. I have recently learned this business and being a perfectionist I want to make sure I’m getting it right. So if your open to it I have a few questions for you.

   While soliciting new accounts one of the salesman wanted his own Jaguar, redyed on the interior. To include dash, consule, door panels, seats, carpets. All in good condition except for one bolster on the driver’s seat having slight crease marks.

   My concern is multiple. One, the existing color is black and he wants to change to a beige color. I have spoken to one of my suppliers and another repair man that I know and both have said to stay away from this job, that it will come back and haunt me. Their concern was that you don’t know what kind of cleaners that person will be using when cleaning their car and if it peels off I would be held responsible. They know of several people that this has happened to.
   Has this happened to you? If you have done this before and were successful, then what methods did you use. Do you also think I should stay away from this? I starting to believe that peeling is the result of poor preparation and lack of primer. Yes? No?

   Another issue I have is that I have seen multiple cars where the dye is peeling off. Not really wearing off, but peeling. I this typical within 6 to 8 months to have happen or were they not priming and preparing the area properly?

   I am also finding that several dealers are wanting large 2″ to 3″ diameter holes in leather seats repaired. I guess they don’t want to send it to an upholsterer. Any way, what do you think of this idea? Adhering the fiber mat to the existing leather, thus bridging the gap, then fit and adhere a new piece of leather within the gap, thus leaving only a perimeter crack to fill, then prime and redye. Do you think this would work?

   Thank you for your time, I look forward to hearing from you. I hope we will be able to communicate further in the future.

   Virgil Roberts

2. 2 On June 12th, 2008, Danny Yunker said:

   Virgil,

   Everything you have mentioned is common in the restoration business. I have been in this business for more than 30 years, and when working car dealerships, the salesmen are usually the first to ask you to do their personal cars.

   As for making a color change: This is a very common request. Traditionally, it has been nearly impossible to do this type of job for the very reasons you have mentioned. However, if you have the right products and use the right techniques, you can end up with a job that will actually outlast the original finish and be impervious to any cleaning chemical applied. Keep in mind that a vast majority of the detail shops do not use “leather friendly” chemicals when doing interiors. I”ve even seen Whitewall Tire Cleaner used! But with the right color coat products and correct prepping and application methods, this job can be done easily and…you can actually place a guarantee to it. I personally place a lifetime guarantee to everything that I do.

   As for the large holes… this too is common. People, especially car dealers, do not want to spend the money and lose the downtime on replacement. So, you will be asked to make these kinds of repairs. Again, using the right products and techniques, these repairs can be completed with a guarantee. The vast majority of products on the market are not strong enough, flexible enough or easy enough to work with to enable you to make these types of repairs. However. do a little searching and you will find a product that will give you everything you are looking for.

   Like you, I too am a perfectionist, an “artisan”. I am my worst critic. If I can satisfy myself, I know my customer will be satisfied. But, I am also a businessman. I am in this business to make money. So my work has to be performed in the shortest amount of time with the best possible results using the least amount of materials. My reputation is the most important aspect of my business. If I refuse to do a job because of limitations in ability or confidence, my customers lose respect for me and my reputation drops a few notches. This opens the door for my competition to come in and I certainly don’t want that.

   Do some research. Ask questions, attend training classes and seminars, experiment. But most importantly, compare the available products. Put them to the test against each other and see which one comes out on top. What youu are looking for is there, you just have to find it.

3. 3 On October 2nd, 2008, Mark said:

   Hello,

   I love your site. I also use some Viper products. I have a question about the cleaner you make. What is TSP Substrate and where can I get it?

   Thanks,
   Mark

4. 4 On October 2nd, 2008, george said:

   some of my panels are dryied and chauky. I cant buy new ones. How should I sand/clean these before dying? I know I’;ll have to blend the damaged area into the grained areas, but would like your pro suggestions.

   Thanks, George

5. 5 On October 2nd, 2008, Mike-TIG said:

   Mark,
   Thanx! Viper Products are great. It’s taken me a long time to find such a fine product. As far as the TSP Substitute, its a painters prep that I picked up at Walmart or you can go to my products page. It’s basically a degreaser. I came up with this concoction to eliminate the need of relying so much on my supplier. Ordering stuff can be a pain, plus I use it a lot so, if I run out all I have to do is go to the store. It works great for all kinds of stuff, even some stain removal.
   Well I’m glad you enjoyed my site and hope I can help you in the future. Thanks for stopping by and let me know how things go. Jump on my forum and start a post about where you are, I have a section for advertising in there, if someone needs a tech in your area they can find you there or if I have a person looking for help in your area I can refer them for you.

   Talk to ya soon,
   Mike “TIG”

6. 6 On October 2nd, 2008, Mike-TIG said:

   George,
   Chalking door panels can be kinda tricky.
   First start by sanding the areas with a 240 grit sandpaper, maybe even a little heavier like a 180 if it’s really bad, switching to a finer grit to remove any sanding marks and make it smooth. You want to get all that chalk off, it acts like a sort of sponge, soaking up the dye. After sanded you will need to clean thoroughly with a wax and grease remover. Next you will need to seal the area with a plastic sealer, which Urethane Supply Company has a good sealer. Then you will need to use an adhesion promoter before you dye or texture. I would recommend using Bulldog Adhesion promoter. If you want to texture the door panel, then use Sems Texture Coat. Spray a couple of light coats, let dry then sand lightly with a 400 grit. Prep again, be careful with the wax and grease remover so you don’t wipe off the texture coat. Use a lint free towel and pore the cleaner on the towel first then wipe it clean gently. Next spray a light coat of adhesion promoter again, let dry, then dye to match with Sems Classic Coat dye.
   Now all this said, the process is a little different if you are using a water based dye. The sanding and prepping is the same, but the adhesion promoter you use after the texture coat is different. A sticky primer needs to be used then apply your water based dye.
   Hope this helps, if you have any more questions don’t hesitate to contact me.

   Talk to ya soon,
   Mike “TIG”

7. 7 On October 28th, 2008, Painting Plastic Gauge Cluster Mounts To Match - Automotive Interior Repair » Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy said:

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8. 8 On December 6th, 2008, Leather Seat Turning Blue » Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy said:

   [...] Contact [...]

9. 9 On December 11th, 2008, Mike B. said:

   Hey Mike,

   What a great site! I’ve been in the business for a few years now and your site has been very helpful. I have a couple questions for you: 1. I recently purchased an electronic variable temp heat gun, per your recommendation. What temperature do you set for curing vinyl compound(both low & regular temp compound)? 2. When adding alcohol to your WB coatings, does “brand” matter(i.e.-SEM,Viper, etc.)? Thanks again for all your advice! You are helping bring our industry to the next level.

   Regards,
   Mike

10. 10 On December 11th, 2008, Mike-TIG said:

    Hey Mike,
    Thank you…..That’s what I wanted to do when I started this site was to bring everybody together and share each others expertise so that our customers will pay for the best and get the best. This fly by the seat of your pants automotive interior repair is in my idea, just taking advantage of people and putting a bad name out there for our industry. Not everyone can do what we do, interior repair is a craft and there is a lot of skill and artistic ability that goes into a repair. I just want things to be honest and trust worthy so everyone benefits. I’m a firm believer in what comes around goes around.
    K, I’m off my soap box, onto your questions, as far as temperature for your heat gun, low temp compounds cure out at around 225 degrees and your high temp compounds around 350 degrees. When the repair compounds get shiny and transparent when heated then your cured. I usually on a vinyl repair say on a seat side will make the vinyl smoke before I press my grain into it. With leather repair though it’s a little different, you don’t want to burn or shrink the leather so watch the low heat compound close. When it’s clear or white, depending on the type your using, then your there pull the heat away and press the grain. It’s really in the look, after a while you just kinda know when it’s ready. But I’ve also been doing this for like ever, so you just have to play with it a little and see which temps work best. One little hint though on door panels use a lower heat the vinyls have a tendency to shrink and your hole gets bigger.

    Now as far as the rubbing alcohol, you can use any brand as long as you get the 90% +, in fact I buy mine at Walmart when we go grocery shopping.

    So how is business in your neck of the woods. Here’s not to bad right now, spotty is a good word for it. Looking to maybe do a little advertising to the public and venture out from the dealers a little while things are a little slow with them. I’ve always worked on word of mouth, and it’s mostly been from the dealers. I’ve found that the public really doesn’t know what I really can do and the amount of money I can save them. I find they will replace panels in seats and buy new steering wheels, ect. not knowing that a leather repair professional like myself even exists and could repair their seat or steering wheel for a fraction of the cost and it last and it look factory. So wish me luck on that little adventure.
    Well hope all is well on your end, and if you get a chance to join my forum and maybe others will follow, I’ve been trying to get that thing going for some time. You can even put your business name and stuff to advertise your business, I did this so if someone in your area was needing help they would know who to call.

    Talk to ya soon,
    Mike “TIG”