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	<title>Comments on: Heat Guns &#8211; Heating Your Repairs</title>
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	<link>http://theinteriorguyllc.com/heat-guns-repairs/</link>
	<description>Your Personal Automotive Upholstery Professional</description>
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		<title>By: Ellan Wynott</title>
		<link>http://theinteriorguyllc.com/heat-guns-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-2810</link>
		<dc:creator>Ellan Wynott</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Jul 2010 17:24:57 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>This post is good.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This post is good.</p>
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		<title>By: Mike-TIG</title>
		<link>http://theinteriorguyllc.com/heat-guns-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-868</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike-TIG</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Nov 2008 03:49:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theinteriorguyllc.com/?p=487#comment-868</guid>
		<description>Well I don&#039;t use the Steinel yet... right now I&#039;m using a Wagner, which I set it on the 400-800 degree setting. When curing out vinyl and leather repair compounds it&#039;s more about using sight rather then temperature. The low cure, just for info, cures out at 225 and the high heat at 350 degrees. The way I do it is heating the compound quickly by holding the gun as close as I can to the repair so to heat the backside too, then pull back, then move in again, when the compound turns clear and shinny, it&#039;s cured. When doing leather be careful not to curl the leather. Use a low heat and watch really close, at the first sign of shrinkage pull the heat away. Another sign that your cure is when the vinyl begins to smoke, when this happens stop heating and press your grain pad to the repair immediately. Hope this helps, great question!

Later....Mike &quot;TIG&quot;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well I don&#8217;t use the Steinel yet&#8230; right now I&#8217;m using a Wagner, which I set it on the 400-800 degree setting. When curing out vinyl and leather repair compounds it&#8217;s more about using sight rather then temperature. The low cure, just for info, cures out at 225 and the high heat at 350 degrees. The way I do it is heating the compound quickly by holding the gun as close as I can to the repair so to heat the backside too, then pull back, then move in again, when the compound turns clear and shinny, it&#8217;s cured. When doing leather be careful not to curl the leather. Use a low heat and watch really close, at the first sign of shrinkage pull the heat away. Another sign that your cure is when the vinyl begins to smoke, when this happens stop heating and press your grain pad to the repair immediately. Hope this helps, great question!</p>
<p>Later&#8230;.Mike &#8220;TIG&#8221;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Mike</title>
		<link>http://theinteriorguyllc.com/heat-guns-repairs/comment-page-1/#comment-845</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 20:54:50 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>When using both low &amp; regular temperature vinyl/leather compound, what temp do you keep your gun on? Steinel 2110E?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When using both low &amp; regular temperature vinyl/leather compound, what temp do you keep your gun on? Steinel 2110E?</p>
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