22nd May 2008

Leather Resurfacing – Dyeing A Leather Seat

Resurfacing a leather seat in your automobile with today’s leathers require a real technique and the right leather dye to achieve a professional job. There are 2 types of leather that I have seen and worked on in today’s leather car seats. You have Nubuck leather or as some call it the soft leather and you have the finished leather which is mostly what you see. The leather dyes you use are completely different too. Aniline dye is used with the soft stuff and a water borne urethane dye for the finished leathers, both mixed with premium tannery pigments. Resurfacing leather applies to the finished leather, when you dye suede the aniline dye is a penetrating dye, so here’s the right way to apply dyes to a finished leather seat.

The process of resurfacing leather takes certain steps to follow, which if not followed correctly, will cause the dye to lift and peel from the seat. As I have always stressed in all my articles is the prepping process. The only way to make a dye job on a leather seat look, feel, and last is to clean it thoroughly and prep the surface for maximum adhesion of the dye. Let the leather dye do what it is designed to do, don’t cover up dirt.

The way to to do this is to clean the leather seat with a scrub brush, a mild soap, and warm water to start. Scrub the seat from top to bottom, paying close attention to the creases and crevices in the seat, these are places for the dye to lift if dirt and goo is there. Wipe it down with a clean towel, again getting down in the creases.

Now the prepping process goes on. In a spray bottle mix in equal parts, water, rubbing alcohol, acetone, ammonia, and TSP substitute. Spray the seat in sections starting at the lean back, and scrub the leather with a scotch brite pad to scuff the leather just enough for the dye to adhere and to remove any more goo hiding out on the leather wiping clean as you go with your towel. This solution will also open the pours to leather and soften up the original dye for better adhesion promotion.

Once clean and scuffed apply a thin coat of grip base or sticky primer to the seat with a damp Bounty paper towel. Apply a thin coat to whole surface of the seat, basically where your going to dye is where the primer will go. Dry it with your hair dryer. This will give you a good sticky base for the dye to adhere to and make your job last.

Dyeing the leather seat takes finesse and good gun control, the dye needs to be applied in thin coats drying between coats or the dye will not adhere properly. One way you can tell if your applying the dye to thick is when you spray you water borne dye on the seat and it “fish eyes”. What this means is you will see little bubble like places in the dye when you spray it on. So thin coats and dry between each coat. Start your dyeing process on the lean back furthest from you and work your way towards you, down, and out. This helps to keep from dragging your hoses and cords over your freshly dyed seat.

Paint gun choice is up to you, but I will say a small detail gun is choice. I have tried the airbrush, I have tried the Prevals, and I’ve tried the siphon feed guns, and the best gun in my eyes for dyeing a leather seat is a gravity feed touch-up gun. They are small enough to maneuver around in the vehicle and hold just the right amount of dye to finish the job. I use the Sharpe 7040 HVLP a small very reliable gun, in fact I bought 2, one for back up. It sprays a small enough pattern to control, but not to small like an airbrush, and lays the leather dye nicely onto the seat. Paint gun choice to me is pretty crucial to making your job a success, so make the right choice when you pick your paint gun for maximum results.

Once the leather seat is dyed, top coat with your water borne clear. I always like to add a little slip additive to the top coat to give it a soft feel. Don’t forget to crosslink the topcoat, this will help to give you more chemical resistance. This process helps to seal the dye and give you a longer lasting leather resurfacing job.

After the topcoat is dry, apply your conditioner and stand back an drool over how nice that seat looks.

Now you have the confidence to stand back and know your dye will stay and your job was done right. I have been dyeing leather seats for a long time and I would love to hear your input on Leather Resurfacing. There are so many different things you will run into when dyeing a leather seat, so drop me a question or 2.

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This entry was posted on Thursday, May 22nd, 2008 at 11:00 PM and is filed under Uncategorized, leather repair. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

There are currently 10 responses to “Leather Resurfacing – Dyeing A Leather Seat”

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  1. 1 On May 22nd, 2008, Chemical Engineering » Blog Archive » Leather Resurfacing - Dyeing A Leather Seat said:

    [...] Fitness.Healthy-Guides.com wrote an interesting post today onHere’s a quick excerptJoin the forum discussion on this post Resurfacing a leather seat in your automobile with today’s leathers require a real technique and the right leather dye to achieve a professional job.  There are 2 types of leather that I have seen and worked on in today’s leather car seats.  You have suede leather or as some call it the soft leather and you have the finished leather which is mostly what you see.  The leather dyes you use are completely different too. Aniline dye is used with the soft stuf [...]

  2. 2 On May 29th, 2008, jobs today said:

    [...] job. There are 2 types of leather that I have seen and worked on in today??s leather car seats.http://theinteriorguyllc.com/leather-resurfacing/GRANHOLM – Michigan: Jobs Today – Jobs TomorrowGovernor Granholm of Michigan – State of the State [...]

  3. 3 On August 15th, 2008, Dyeing A Leather Seat - How To Dye Two Tone Leather » Automotive Interior Repair with The Interior Guy said:

    [...] make sure you use your prepping solution to clean the seat thoroughly. You can find another article here for the solution I use to prep a seat. Now if your just going to do say a bolster, then you [...]

  4. 4 On December 31st, 2009, Brian Jones said:

    I just bought a used car (Mercedes E Class 2004) which is in great shape except for a small bubble about the size in the quarter in the leather center console arm rest. I was thinking of taking a small needle and injecting some glue under the bubble to glue it back down.

    Is that the correct way to fix this? Is there a better type of glue to use?

  5. 5 On January 1st, 2010, Mike-TIG said:

    Brian…
    You can try that, but the vinyl may be to stretched out to lay down flat. The best thing to do is have it recovered, that way ur rest assured it will stay. There was a reason for the bubble in the first place (meaning there’s something going on under there like break down of the foam ect.)
    One thing you have to keep in mind too is when you poke the vinyl with a needle, your making a hole, which in time can get bigger.
    If you do this try using a very small needle and a contact adhesive, you might also want to heat it up a bit with a hair dryer to soften the vinyl up a bit before hand.
    Well I wish u luck with this, let me know how things turn out for ya :)

    Mike – The Interior Guy

  6. 6 On April 18th, 2010, Sheri Wright said:

    I am wanting to change the color of the leather seats, will these instructions still work? I bought some Katzin leather seats on Ebay and they are not the right color. They are Buckskin and I would like to make a Taupe color or if I can go lighter a light beige. Thanks

  7. 7 On April 19th, 2010, Mike-TIG said:

    Sheri,
    To be really honest with you I would not try to change the color of your leather seats. The dyes are a surface dye and could scratch off on the vinyl areas of the covers showing the under color. I’m just not a real big fan of color changes. There are to many things that can go wrong and you end up with a mess in the end. I think you would be better off reselling the seats and getting the color you want. I know this isn’t the advice you were looking for but I’m just being honest with you and trying to save you in the end.

  8. 8 On May 28th, 2010, Jason said:

    I just used Mother’s leather cleaner on my MG Midget which the seats wear replace with entire new leather seats/cushions about 5 years ago. I’ll followed the directions by letting the cleaner sit a few minutes and guess what happened. Yep, the color started to peel away from the leather!!! $2,500 down the drain! I heard about re-dying the seats but how to I prep those areas where the color has rubbed off and now either is bunched up or entire peeled away so when you move your hand over that area you can tell the color is gone?

  9. 9 On June 26th, 2010, Edward Rowe said:

    I have the same problem as the person listed above….I bought some leather replacement seats from Kratzin and the color doesn`t match….what about having the color changed professionally at an upholstery shop from taupe to black….Is that also not a good idea???

  10. 10 On June 28th, 2010, Mike-TIG said:

    Edward,
    The Only way to change a color of a leather and vinyl seat is to paint the seat. With the experience I’ve had in the past, even with the top of the line materials that I use and taking the time to prep it thoroughly and properly still have issues with color changes. There’s always that one spot that doesn’t take right or someone scratches it (it is a surface paint) and then you have the color from underneath showing through. Color changes are just not a good idea when it comes to a daily driver. Even an upholstery will tell you that the only thing they can do is either make new covers or paint the ones you have. Really just save yourself another headache and get the right color covers, I promise you will be better off and much happier in the end.

    Talk to ya soon,
    Mike Warren – The Interior Guy

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