If a heat gun breaks down while your doing a repair it can cost you time and money in the long run. So buying a cheap heat gun and thinking your saving money is a bad move believe me. I went through that phase of thinking buying a cheap gun just to get me by would work, well after running back and forth to the hardware store every other week or even sooner I figured it was not saving me anything, all it was doing was causing me frustration and more money each time I was down. So I figured it was time to break down and get with the big boys and buy the right equipment for the right job.

There are so many options out there to choose from. I’m going to try to give you a few pointers in the use of your heat guns and give you some choices to choose from.

First and foremost there is something that I’ve learned that will save your heat gun and make your heating element last ten times longer, now this is a feature that is not available on most of the less expensive models, its what is called the “cool down” time. The cool down time is crucial in cooling the element gradually so not to burn it out. What this is is when you turn the heat off on the gun, you can switch it to where cool air blows through cooling the element slowly. This little trick will make your heat gun last a lot longer, believe me. In fact I won’t buy a gun unless it can be switched to cool air. I used to go through elements like crazy and then being the man I was didn’t think to look at the manual, but one day in the shop going through some paper work I happen to read a little about the heat gun I was using and came across a part that talked about the cool down stage and how when you get done with the unit to let it sit and run on the cool air cycle for about a minute before it’s to be shut down. They gave no real reason for this, you know most instruction manuals, anyways it made since. You know how if things that are really hot and don’t get a chance to cool down right, then they sometimes take on a different shape, form or even molecular structure. So I tried it and it really worked, really it was kinda a “duh” thing but just one more thing to help from having down time. No more buying elements on a regular basis.

Depending on the heat gun you use and really this can go for all the guns is to be careful not to drop it. On the inside if you haven’t ever seen the heating element, is a coil of wire wrapped around a ceramic piece and this stuff is kinda delicate. If you break the ceramic too bad then the gun will burn itself up. It has to do with the heat transfer or something like that, but they will break if you drop them to many times. We all get in a hurry sometimes and tools get to fly’n but this one is just a little more delicate then most so you gotta be a little more delicate with this one.

Laying your heat gun down while doing a repair can be a challenge, because you can’t really keep turning your heat gun off and on just to lay it down for a second to get more compound on the repair or shoot a little dye on the repair area. So finding a gun that either stands up on it’s own or finding something to lay the gun on without burning something else and creating another repair. I do a lot of new limo’s and when I’m inside there’s no room for error, and if my gun falls over onto a seat or burns a spot in the carpet then I’m….well let’s just not go there. I use a piece of cardboard to set my gun on and really pay attention to where the blast is going. I’ll even hold the gun between my legs so I don’t have to set it down if needed. Just anything to keep a very bad thing happening.

I’ve used both types of heat guns that either stand up on there own or not. The ones that have the stand, well they’re handy but I see why they have the stands because they’re so big and heavy. One thing to keep in mind is the weight of a gun too, it’s kinda hard holding a heavy heat gun up to doing a repair. But I like my big gun the elements are easy to change and I like the way I can set it down easily. It heats well and does have a cool down mode. But like I said it is heavy and a lot of times I will use my lighter weight heat gun. It’s easier to handle and the one I have has a digital read out so I know what temp I’m at for each job.

The digital read out is nice, I have total control of temperature. There’s a couple of heat guns I would recommend if your looking for control with your heat. One is the Steinel IntelliTemp and the other is the Wagner Digital heat guns. Both are great guns, the Steinel is of course a more commercial grade type of gun, made to last in extreme work environments. The Wagner I’d say is more lower end commercial model but probably won’t last as long. I’m using the Wagner right now, I’m still kinda in that cheap a@# mode but the gun works pretty good. I bought it in a pinch when my big gun went down and I couldn’t get a part right away and happen to find it on the damaged shelf, the only thing wrong with it was the spout had a dent in it, yes I know I’m a cheap a@#. The read out isn’t exactly a LCD read out but you do have control over your temperature range. The Steinel will probably be my next purchase due to the durability and the LCD read out is nice, but so far so good the Wagners doin the trick.

Now one other little device you do need to go along from with your heat gun for doing a vinyl repair and even leather repairs is a reducer tip. What this will do will concentrate the heat to a smaller area giving you more control in your smaller repairs and reducing the “halo effect”. That is one thing that I didn’t like with the Wagner is that it did not come with a reducer tip. Luckily I had one made for my other gun. It’s a long 1/4″ tube welded to a piece that slides down over the end of the heat gun. But I will tell you if you use one of these make sure it is on there before you start your repair, if it falls off in the car when it’s hot it will burn the car and You when you go to grab it in a frantic, been there, it hurts.

One last little tip when using your heat gun. If your dyeing an entire seat don’t use your heat gun to dry the dye. Buy a hairdryer! This will save time and your gun too. When your dyeing a lot of over spray is floating around and gets recirculated back through the gun. It will clog the gun up and ruin it. Using a hairdryer will save your gun from this and they blow harder anyway which dries the dyes quicker. You don’t run the risk of melting or bubbling your dyes like with a heat gun.

So the biggest things to look for when purchasing your next heat gun is variable heat settings, a cool down mode, accessibility to parts like elements, and really in my opinion is weight, the lighter guns are just a little easier to use. Don’t forget your reducer tip too, it will come in handy.

Hope this helps in your repairs with the few tips on the use of your heat gun and heating your repairs.

Heres you a few choices for heat guns and accessories:

Steinel SNL34850 IntelliTemp Heat Gun with LCD Temperature Display – 2010ESTEINEL heat guns have built a reputation for using state of the art technology to maximize precision and durability. Our new generation of heat guns incorporates exciting new features responding directly to ever increasing global requirements for rigorous, formalized quality control. Microprocessor controlled heat gun with LCD display enabling temperature selection in 10 degrees Fahrenheit increments. STEINEL’s exclusive DuraTherm heating element ensures long life and even heat. Temperature: Continuously variable 120 – 1150 degrees Fahrenheit Airflow: 3.6 / 10.6 / 17.6 CFM Switch: 1) Cool Air (120 degrees Fahrenheit / 3.6 CFM), 2) Var Temp/10.6 CFM, 3) Var Temp/17.6 CFM Output: 1500 watts Voltage: 120 VAC / 60 Hz Weight: 30 oz Warranty: Full One Year Accessories Accepts a full range of nozzles and accessories.

Wagner Digital Heat Gun, Model# HT3500Digital touchpad with LED indicators. Great for paint removal, loosening rusted bolts, thawing pipes and more. Watts: 1,500, BTU Output: 5,100, Heat Settings: 12, Temperature Capacity (F): 250 – 1,350 2 fan speeds Cool setting cools down gun and automatically shuts off Ergonomic handle with hanging eyelet

Milwaukee Variable Temperature Heat Gun with Digital Temp Display, Model# 8988-20Required CFM: 7.06, 8.83, 15.89, Heat Settings: Variable, Temperature Capacity (F): 90 – 1,100 Independent controls for temperature and air flows Digiatal display for temperature settings Three controlled air volumes allow you to match the air speed to your application Removable air filter keeps debris out Ceramic encapsulated heating element for maximum tool life One hand operation with lightweight and easy grip handle Upright stationary use with pads on back cap and lower handle

9Mm Reduction Nozzle For Steinel Electronic Heat Guns? Provides a precisely concentrated stream of hot air. Used for welding or soldering. ? Can be used as a base for specialized attachments such as the SNL07091 Plastic Welding Attachement. ? Precision formed from high-grade, polished stainless steel for superior performance and reliability. ? Note: For use on Steinel electronic heat guns only.By Steinel.

Master Appliance 750-1000deg Heavy Duty Heat Gun 120v 14.5am (Sold Individually)CASE PACK: Sold Individually DETAILS: Powerful high speed universal motor Sturdy die cast housing Adjustable non-slip stand Use to bend plastics, cure adhesives, dry parts, heat parts, shrink tubing and packaging, strip paint and more *Operating Temp. = 750 deg F Min , 1000 deg F Max *Voltage = 120.00 VAC *Frequency = 60.0 Hz *Amps = 14.50 A *Watts = 1740.00 W *Flow = 23.0 CFM *Velocity = 3000 ft/min *Fan Speed = Single *Length = 9 in *Width = 5.200 in *Height = 10.100 in *Outlet Size = 1 in *Cord Length = 6 ft *Control Type = Variable Temperature, Switch (3 Pos-Off/On/Heat) *Handle Type = Pistol Grip *Type = Heat Gun *Wt. = 3.70 lb UL listed UPC: 635705101099

Bosch 1942 Heat GunThe Bosch Heat Gun features: *14.3 Amps, 750-1000F *Powerful blower Provides a high volume of air needed for industrial applications *Air intake regulator Adjusts the temperature to the requirements of the job *Cool air setting For cooling tool and for no-heat applications, adds versatility *Insulated nozzle Protects operator, provides a cool exterior temperature *Padded, adjustable stand Allows stationary use with multi-position holder *Multiple uses Strip paint, shrink tubing or packaging, heat liquids, loosen fittings, soften caulking and surface finishes, thaw pipes *Range of accessories Adapts tool for specific uses in building trades, industrial applications, and laboratory work Includes: *Heat Gun – 1942

The official name is an Enhanced Air Flow Flameless Heat Tool, and is exclusively available first through Viper Products. Check out these specs.

Viper X-7 Heat Tool

Self-igniting, butane-powered flameless heat tool
with fan assisted air flow

	Eliminates scorching and burning damage to vinyl and other substrates
	Ideal for pinpoint repairs on vinyl, leather, and plastic and much more…
	Variable temperature 302F to 572F (150C to 300C) with fan
	Enhanced air flow volume is 4 times greater with fan
	Variable temperature 482F to 932F (250C to 500C) without fan
	Butane-powered and completely portable/cordless, for use where no electrical outlets are available
	Built-in battery-powered motor uses 4 standard AA batteries (not included)
	Built-in LED light provides lighting in dark locations

	Built-in stand is convenient for safety and hands-free use
	Use with or without enhanced air flow and with or without shrink attachment
	Ergonomic handle makes tool easy to use over an extended period of time

What I thought was cool was the control of your heat. With the fan on you get a nice low temperature for doing low heat compounds like on a leather seat. In fact today I was able to repair a hole in a drivers leather seat bolster on a GMC Envoy, a low heat repair. I just turned the flow down and fan on. I also fixed a small hole in an armrest of a Chevy Suburban, a high heat repair, this was a small crack, close to the seam. With this little heat gun I was able to pinpoint my heat and make the repair without damaging the seam, which as you know I hate messing up the seam on a vinyl repair. This time I turned the flow up and used the fan on some of it, and when I needed a little more heat I turned the fan off, and there it was. I just couldn’t go wrong with heat control.

There’s also a little led light for those unlit areas we sometimes get ourselves into. My idea for this tool is on some of the repairs I have to do on Limousines, with very low light situations.

You’ve got to have this little tool, it is a must if you do vinyl repairs. I’ve used regular ultra torches before, but didn’t have the control like this one. Normally there’s a flame you have to deal with and damage to the vinyl happens really fast with not a lot of control. Basically you burn your repair instead of melting it. With the Viper X-7 you have heat control with no flame.

Now it’s not going to replace my big heat gun for doing larger vinyl repairs, but what a great compliment.

So anyways here it is, and here’s where you can get it – Viper X-7 – Now don’t forget your promo code IG1100 for a discount.

Vinyl repairs require so many different temperatures to achieve the desired results. Heating your repair with a the right tool will get you your desired results with your automotive interior repairs.